Episódios

  • #105: Stretching Strategies and Injury Trends

    #105: Stretching Strategies and Injury Trends
    Sep 17 2024

    This 15-minute flash episode will delve briefly into two topics:

    • 1, Stretching for climbers -- learn what to do and when.
    • 2. Recent injury trends...and the number #1 thing you can do to lower your injury risk.

    This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast.

    T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

    SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

    Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

    Music Remix of the Police

    Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

    Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

    Follow Eric on Facebook!

    And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

    Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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    16 minutos
  • #104: Tips for Raising Happy, Healthy Climbing Kids

    #104: Tips for Raising Happy, Healthy Climbing Kids
    Sep 10 2024

    In this Flash episode, I'm going to talk briefly about raising happy, healthy kids with a passion for climbing!

    There's no "right" way to raise kid climbers...but I'm going to share the approach that my wife and I used to develop well-rounded kids who, today as young adults (ages 22 and 24), love climbing more than ever!

    This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast.

    T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

    SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

    Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

    Music: Remix of The Police

    Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

    Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

    Follow Eric on Facebook!

    And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

    Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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    15 minutos
  • #103: Online vs. In-Person Coaching & How Training Has Changed in the Last 40 Years

    #103: Online vs. In-Person Coaching & How Training Has Changed in the Last 40 Years
    Sep 4 2024

    This month, I'm serving up multiple "Flash Episodes" of the T4C podcast -- released weekly -- that you can consume in less than 20 minutes.

    The topics covered in this first episode...include the pros/cons of online coaching...and a generalized look at how training (and nutrition) for climbers has changed over the last 40 years.

    Upcoming Flash Episodes in September (released weekly) will examine these topics:

    • How to raise kid climbers...to be happy, healthy athletes...and, hopefully, pass on the gift of becoming a climber for life.
    • How (and when) to stretch and train flexibility for climbing. Also, a pithy discussion of climbing injury trends.
    • Potential benefits (and drawbacks) of ice baths (or cold plunges), intermittent fasting, and sauna use.

    This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast.

    T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

    SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

    Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

    Music by Misty Murphy

    Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

    Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

    Follow Eric on Facebook!

    And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

    Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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    20 minutos
  • #102: The Road to 5.13a - Part 4: Closing the Deal!

    #102: The Road to 5.13a - Part 4: Closing the Deal!
    Aug 8 2024

    What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations for Ryan Devlin as he closes in on completing his first 5.13a, a Red River Gorge classic named "The Force".

    This is a follow-up to episodes #86, #91, and #94, in which I coach Ryan through the long process of training for and working on his first-ever 5.13. You will hear where Ryan is at with his project--you'll learn some of his struggles along the way, including a minor finger/hand injury early this year.

    We'll discuss Ryan's training plan for the next 6 to 8 weeks until the Autumn "send season" arrives. We'll also dig deep into these important topics:

    • What went right and wrong on the almost-send last season

    • How to carry a project over from one season to the next

    • The secret to being a successful route climber

    • Aerobic vs Anaerobic endurance training

    • The science of building route fitness

    • Why many climbers are training endurance wrong

    So lean into this podcast and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you might take and apply to your training for the next goal or grade, whatever it may be!

    This episode is a collaboration of Ryan's "The Struggle" podcast and my Training For Climbing podcast. I hope you enjoy it! Listen to and subscribe to The Struggle Podcast here >>

    T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

    SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

    Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

    Music by Misty Murphy

    Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

    Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

    Follow Eric on Facebook!

    And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

    Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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    1 hora e 30 minutos
  • #101: EXPERT: Optimizing Training, Health, and Performance with Functional Medicine

    #101: EXPERT: Optimizing Training, Health, and Performance with Functional Medicine
    Jul 9 2024
    Many enthusiastic climbers work hard to level up their performance year over year, and some of us invest great time, effort, and resources into pursuing our climbing goals. One powerful tool for gaining a performance edge is the use of a functional medicine approach to blood testing…which is the focus of this episode of the T4C podcast. My expert guest joining us for this episode….is Thomas Cunningham, a Louisville Kentucky-based doctor, who also happens to be a 5.14 climber! Dr. Cunningham is a board-certified physician, researcher, and functional medicine specialist who believes in combining evidence-based medicine, nutrition, and training to improve your health, wellness, and human performance. The specific focus of this podcast is the use of regular blood testing, and how you can potentially use blood test results to adjust your nutrition and training in ways that amplify your efforts, accelerate recovery, boost performance, and enhance your overall health and well-being. RUNDOWN 00:15 – T4C podcast mission statement 00:45 – The things we do to level up our performance 1:10 – Intro of podcast topic: Blood testing to optimize health and performance 1:35 – Introducing our expert, Dr. Thomas Cunningham (Instagram: @thomascunninghammd.com) 2:30 – Use of blood test biomarkers 3:45 – Value for older athletes 4:10 – Podcast Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition -- used by 2024 Olympians Natalia Grossman, Alex Megos, and Yannick Flohe'. Get your PhysiVantage at 15% off (code: PODCAST15) at PhysiVantage.com 5:00 – Interview with Dr. Thomas Cunningham 5:30 – What is functional medicine: “Medicine 3.0” 9:30 – Preventative health care through your primary physician – The "Big 4 Killers" 11:20 – Pursuit of “optimal” rather than “average” 14:00 - What testing is appropriate for 20-somethings vs. 50-somethings, etc. 16:40 – “Treat the patient, don’t treat the numbers!” 19:15 – Basic blood panels: Metabolic, Lipid, Complete blood count 22:25 – Self-order/self-pay bloodwork at Quest.com or UltaLabs.com 23:30 – More nuanced blood work to consider: Vitamin D, Hormone Panel, Thyroid Panel, HbA1c, ApoB 31:45 – Vitamin supplements to support Testosterone – vitamin D3, zinc, selenium, boron. (PhysiVantage Nutrition VITALIUM is a single-source supplement containing these micronutrients.) 35:00 – The role of genetics, stress, training, nutrition, and sleep. 37:10 – Considerations for vegan athletes. Supplements to consider: B-6, B-12, Iron, D3 + k2, iodine 40:00 – The journey toward optimization. 47:02 – Considerations for female athletes – abnormalities to watch for and treat. 49:50 – Thyroid function and blood panels 53:00 – Hormone changes in women 55:00 – A brief mention of peptides 57:00 – Get the low-hanging fruit…by getting your sleep and nutrition on point…and do some strength training every week. 1:01:00 – Final thoughts Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! Music by Misty Murphy SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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    1 hora e 4 minutos
  • #100: The 10 Secrets to Climbing Harder!

    #100: The 10 Secrets to Climbing Harder!
    Jun 11 2024

    To celebrate the 100th episode of the T4C podcast, I wanted to serve up a powerful, comprehensive, yet easily digestible and actionable list of things you can do today to break through a performance plateau...and begin a journey towards being the best climber you can be!

    No matter your current experience or level of climbing, I guarantee that you will find this episode to be a tour de force of things you can do to accelerate your rate of improvement...and increase your confidence, joy, and experience while climbing.

    Therefore, a more accurate title of this podcast might be..."The 10 secrets to accelerating improvement and climbing your very best!"

    I've got a lot of territory to cover in the next hour, so let's get started!

    Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

    Music by Misty Murphy

    SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

    Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

    Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

    Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

    Follow Eric on Facebook!

    And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

    Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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    1 hora e 5 minutos
  • #99: EXPERT: How Climbing Shoes Affect Your Performance. Big time!

    #99: EXPERT: How Climbing Shoes Affect Your Performance. Big time!
    May 13 2024
    When it comes to climbing, no single piece of gear is more influential on your performance than your shoes. Getting the right shoe fit and feel for a given boulder or route is critical to climbing your best! However, there are dozens of climbing shoes on the market with widely varying designs, looks, and prices. What's the right shoe(s) for your gym training and outdoor rock climbing? What features should you look for? How tight should you fit your shoes? Our shoe expert, Michael Genauer from La Sportiva NA, will answer these questions and many more in this episode. Listen and learn how to make your climbing shoes perform better for you! Reminder: T4C episode #97 provided a look into the science of chalk and optimal chalk use. Combined with today's podcast #99, these two episodes provide a comprehensive look into the quality of your four points of contact with the rock. If you want to climb better, then you must strive to optimize your purchase with each contact point. RUNDOWN 00:20 - Introduction 1:30 - Building on podcast #97, my interview with Kevin Brown about the science of chalk and optimal chalk use. 2:00 - Now we look at the feet! How shoe design, fit, comfort, and price affect footwork and climbing performance. 4:00 - Podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition. Save 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15. 7:00 - Overview of shoe design, parts, and craftsmanship. 10:00 - Heel structure and performance. 16:10 - Downpointing and asymmetric shoes for high-performance sport climbing and bouldering. Details on the La Sportiva "PD #". 18:45 - Entry-level shoes versus high-performance fit. 20:50 - Why outdoor climbers likely need 2 or more different pairs of shoes....for optimal performance on different rock types and climbing styles. 22:00 - Lace-up shoes versus slip-on shoes. 27:15 - Lined versus unlined? 29:10 - How much should you "size down" your climbing shoes (compared to your approach shoe size)? 32:05 - Shoe fit for kid crushers! Tips to optimize performance and reduce risk of toe/foot injury. 33:20 - Shoe rubber, stickiness, and temperature effect on optimal rubber performance. 38:50 - Proper care tips for maintaining your shoe's performance and extending the life of the shoe...so hopefully you can get a couple of resoles out of each pair of new shoes. 40:20 - When to resole your shoes? 46:10 - Does the country a shoe is manufactured in tell us anything about the quality and performance of a shoe? 52:00 - Closing thoughts, and discussion about La Sportiva's new retail shoe in Boulder, CO. Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! Music by Misty Murphy SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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    56 minutos
  • #98: Training for Bouldering with Drew Ruana vs. Training for Route Climbing

    #98: Training for Bouldering with Drew Ruana vs. Training for Route Climbing
    Apr 11 2024

    In this episode, Coach Hörst shares his recent unique training day in the Front Range of Colorado. Eric will contrast the remarkable late-afternoon workout of one of the world's top boulderers, Drew Ruana, with his own route-climbing workout a few hours earlier.

    You will learn the fundamental differences between training for bouldering and route climbing, particularly concerning the energy systems that power climbing movements. Eric with detail his climbing-specific aerobic system route training session at the G1 gym.

    Eric will then describe Drew's unique limit boulder training methodology that's elevated him to being one of the very best boulderers on the planet. Learn how Drew puts his home woodie to work for maximum gains!

    Whether your climbing focus is boulders or routes, this pithy reductionist analysis of training for climbing will engage and enlighten passionate climbers of all ability levels.

    *** Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). ***

    In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

    Music by Misty Murphy

    SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

    Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

    Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

    Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

    Follow Eric on Facebook!

    And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

    Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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    35 minutos